'Humble little restaurant' in Maidenhead town centre scoops Top 100 accolade

The owners of a Queen Street restaurant are content with being the inconspicuous hidden gem of Maidenhead, despite the numerous accolades bestowed upon it since opening five years ago.

“One important thing is that we don’t take the concentration off what has got us to where we are now, which is this humble little restaurant,” chef Wesley Smalley told the Advertiser.

“For me, having a family-run neighbourhood restaurant gives a real sort of honesty, and we like to be transparent in what we do.”

Seasonality has been ranked among SquareMeal's Top 100 restaurant list for three consecutive years, taking the 58th spot last month.

Founded by Wesley and Francesca Smalley in 2021, Seasonality began as a food shop selling local produce to the community through ready-made meal delivery boxes.

“It started with a few friends at a Zoom dinner party – they absolutely loved it, and we decided to do more marketing and send boxes out to different people.

“Our USP was to be as far removed from Gusto and HelloFresh and prepare the boxes as you would in a professional kitchen, where you don't cook to order.”

Seasonality offered fruit and vegetables, marinated meat and fish and dine-at-home weekend boxes containing pre-prepared meals that could be finished off at home.

“It was going to have pop-up tables and chairs – not on a reservation basis – but coming out of COVID, there wasn't the footfall in the town centre, so we decided to pivot the business.

“We started doing a tasting dinner reflection of what's happening at the farm, and that was the catalyst for us to concentrate on being a restaurant.”

"It's like coming into our home."

Seasonality opened as a restaurant in 2022 and, true to its name, continues to focus on ingredients with menus changing throughout the year.

“We didn't really pick the unit; it picked us. This was the first place that we bumped into,” said Wesley about the Queen Street location.

“We went for a walk in our lockdown exercise break, while finding a home to facilitate the boxes. We’ve grown into the site.

“The covers fit with what we're trying to achieve. An open kitchen where guests see me cook, chat and have that instant connection when they come through the door.”

Seasonality received a double-page Guardian feature by restaurant critic Grace Dent, was included in the Michelin Guide and was also named ‘Best Neighbourhood Restaurant in the South East‘ by the Good Food Guide 2023.

“That was huge for us. That was the catalyst for us moving into being more of a full-time restaurant, and through that national exposure, you get other people coming in to see you,” he said.

Although Queen Street is not associated with restaurants, Wesley said they turned down the Waterside Quarter in favour of the heritage location.

“It’s one of those adages where if you get it right, people are going to come to wherever you are,” he said.

“In hindsight, if we hadn't stumbled across this, we might have thought about the riverside. But our customers like the thought that we exceed expectations.

“When you come through the door, it's like coming into our home.”

Wesley’s penchant for neighbourhood restaurants originated after winning a Best London Neighbourhood Restaurant award while working at Charlotte’s Bistro in Chiswick.

“Those places are quite interesting to me – they’re more accessible. The wine list is very concise, and the menu is very concise.

“Our menus are reflective of what's happening at Waltham Place Farm, where we get our produce. A neighbourhood restaurant should showcase that.

“That's important when you're trying to attract locals to come more often.”

"The barriers are broken down."

Seasonality is a stark difference to Wesley’s previous venture as executive chef and manager of food and beverage at The Oriental Club in Mayfair for 17 years.

The 47-year-old has been cooking for 28 years, having grown up in Southeast Asia, and rather than leaving school to join the British Army like his father, he joined an apprenticeship in a restaurant in Sunningdale before going to London.

His work has taken him to Australasia, Europe and the Middle East, as he and Francesca worked with French chef Jean-Christophe Novelli for eight years. The couple have been based in Maidenhead with their children since 2017.

“The menu reflects my background. There might be things customers don't know, but they don't feel like they can’t ask the question,” said Wesley.

“There are far too many restaurants in this country where it's not that accessible. People don’t want to sound silly for asking.

“Whereas our place is like coming into our home. The barriers are broken down, so people feel at ease asking. I think that's important.”

Wesley recognises that they are ‘lucky’ in Maidenhead to be surrounded by prestigious restaurants, which means the area is on the radar for the Michelin and Good Food guides.

“We never take anything for granted,” he added.

“We don't strive for these awards, but they are hugely important. They’re not just important to me as a chef, Francesca as a business owner, but they're hugely important for the younger team.

“To be exposed to that recognition that early on is great for them and helps them throughout their career.

“SquareMeal is important because it's voted for by our customers. That is a direct reflection of what we're trying to achieve.

“That instant gratification is great for us – it’s the same as talking to somebody who's sat at the counter while I'm cooking.”