A highly successful launch

EATING at the Boathouse can only be described as an experience.

Shaun Dickens only officially opened last week, at the old chandlery at the Hobbs boatyard, off Station Road but cleverly created a buzz with a series of “soft launches” beforehand, offering diners a free glass of Prosecco in return for their feedback.

I was invited along to one of these evenings, and spent the day looking forward to sampling the menu.

I was not disappointed.

When we arrived there were only four other diners in the restaurant, but the space felt far from empty due to a combination of atmospheric lighting and a friendly reception by Shaun’s wife Gemma.

We were lead to some comfy chairs overlooking the river, where we sipped champagne and nibbled on canapés.

It was the perfect start to the evening and the staff were attentive yet allowed us to enjoy perusing the menu.

When seated at our table we were presented with an amuse-bouche - a fantastically rich and velvety garlic velouté with crispy goats cheese and pea puree.

The taste was amazing, as was the selection of breads that were accompanied by both salted and orange infused butter.

I was surprised by how well the orange completed the parmesan bread, and thought it gave a unique twist to the normal swirled butter you get in top restaurants.

For a starter I opted for the Oxford blue cheese mousse with celery ribbons, crystallised walnut and compressed apple. The plate that was put in front of me looked different to the dish I imagined, with two small mounds of mousse with crumbled walnuts and a milk shard sticking out.

But the flavours complemented one another perfectly, especially the cheese with the walnuts.

My companion chose pig belly with tomato chutney, pickled mushrooms and confit yolk, which again looked vibrant and interesting on the plate.

The meat was extremely tender and the tang of the tomato worked very well. My only criticism of the service was how quickly the courses followed one another.

I still had the lovely taste from the cheese when my beef sirloin arrived.

With it came red onion chutney, braised cheek, purple sprouting broccoli and red wine jus.

Again it was very aesthetically pleasing, though I think I would have liked some sort of potato to go with it.

However, the meat was cooked perfectly and the cheek rich with a melt-in-your-mouth texture.

My partner opted for the hand rolled tagliatelle which was presented with a slow poached duck egg, leek and purple sprouting broccoli.

I actually wished I had gone for this as it looked and tasted so good, and was a steal at £18.

Next we were given an intriguing dish of lime sorbet with sweet granola, which delighted the senses.

I am not a fan of lime nor granola, but thoroughly enjoyed this palate cleanser and the granola pulled the whole thing together perfectly.

By this point, around 9pm, eight of the tables at the restaurant were full and everyone seemed to be enjoying the food and the new-look restaurant.

Dessert was a tough one to call. I was drawn to the apple and cinnamon rum and raisin parfait with toffee doughnut and cinnamon marshmallow but finally decided on the chocolate rocks with white chocolate ice cream.

Again, a very elegant dish, using the ingredients in a way that you would not expect, which offered a challenge to all of the senses.

I also sampled the grilled pineapple with honey mascarpone, pineapple sorbet and crispy meringue which was light and sweet.

When we had finished the meal we were offered coffee and petit fours back in the comfy chairs, which was the ideal way to finish the evening.

I think that Shaun has managed to get it right with the Boathouse. The prices are good value for money around £35 for three courses and the whole “feel” of the restaurant is smart yet relaxed.

The food was exquisite and the components of each dish were clever, with creative presentation that kept you guessing. I’m already looking forward to returning.

Sian Gordon